Situated on one of the numerous islands in the Venetian lagoon, Mazzorbo Island is an unusual location for a winery, because it's at sea level and on a small marshy island. Nevertheless, history tells a different story. The Dorona di Venezia grape has been cultivated here tracing back to the 1300s.
What makes growing at sea level so troublesome?
Vinus Vinefera grapes (that is, grapes for wine-making) like hardship in the vineyard. Grapes that struggle for water - think rocky soils or those mixed with limestone, sand or clay on steep slopes have one thing in common, they produce lower yields on the vine. And low yields = high quality in each grape which translates to higher quality in the bottle. So, a wine at sea level with abundant water, what gives? SALT! Salt is a harsh counter-hydrator, and struggle the vines do...a lot, in fact.
A Pioneer or Pazzo (crazy)?
Grape growing on the island of Mazzorbo was almost extinct. From the 1300's grapes were cultivated for wine, until the great flood of 1966. Then, BASTA- the vineyards were all destroyed by the flood and abandoned.
Gianluca Bisol (of prosecco fame) was visiting the small lagoon island of Torcello (not far from Mazzorbo) when he spotted a small vineyard. Despite the flood of '66, these 88 vines were surviving and producing grapes. It was the indigenous grape of Dorona di Venezia (a white wine grape) which had adapted to the salt water conditions of the lagoon over the centuries. He relocated these plants to Mazzorbo and Venissa was born in 2002 amidst great skepticism.
The first vintage of Venissa was introduced in 2010.
There is only one hectare of Dorona di Venezia in the world, and only 3500 bottles are produced annualy, all by Venissa.
In the glass
Venissa produces 2 levels of both white and red wines and all wines undergo a long maceration (soaking the newly pressed juice with the skins). This lends great structutre to these age-worthy wines. Perhaps it was just our imagination, knowing the roots live in salt soaked soil, but Svein and I both noted a subtle, pleasant saline quality to the wines. The whites are full-bodied with a long finish. The reds are structured and elegant.
The experience
Winery tours tend to be fairly similar, but Venissa stands out and the vineyard tour is well worth the 1 hour pre-tasting time. The history alone of how this fortunitious place came to be is worth hearing personally by a well-educated guide.
The signature wines are Venissa Bianco and Venissa Rosso, and there is another (less expensive) bottling of both white and red called Venusa.
Hospitality
In addition to the winery, Venissa has a small hotel with simple but comfortable rooms and 2 restaurants, one earning a Michelin Star and Green Star, the one awarded for sustainable practices. Venissa has purchased a couple buildings next to the winery for additional rooms and a spa, making it a full service weekend get-away!
Getting there
Venissa is accessable by both vaporetto (the Venice public bus boat) and water taxi. There is also a bridge that connects Mazzorbo to its more densely populated neighbor, Burano.
What's next for the pazzo pioneer Gianluca Bisol? Low to high- now he is attempting the highest altitude winery in Europe (4500 feet) near Cortina d'Ampezzo. The man obviously likes a challenge, but I will certainly not miss the first vintage if he's successful! Let's hope it's in time for the alpine events in Cortina at the 2026 Olympic Games!
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