Bacari, the Venetian word for wine bars that serve small tapas-like snacks called cicchetti are abundant throughout Venice. The highest concentration of historic (centuries old) ones can be found in the San Polo neighborhood near the Rialto Bridge and the infamous fish market.
It's very Venitian to go from bacaro to bacaro ordering an "ombra" of wine (shadow of wine or small glass) and a snack or two. I love to do this for lunch, but in Venice it's an all-day affair!
Here are 4 to put on your Venice itinerary.
Cantina do Mori
Do Mori is the oldest bacaro in Venice and maintains very "old school" in style to this day. It's freqented by older gentelmen who have been coming for a glass and a bite for decades.
All'Arco
Expect a little more creativity in the combinations presented at All'Arco, most typically consisting of fish from the nearby Rialto Market. There is typically a line and it's all out warfare for a table inside or out! In Bocca al Lupo (Italian for good luck)!
Cantina do Spade
Cantina do Spade is another traditional centenarian bacaro offering the traditional fare and a few seasonal items on the heavier side.
Bancogiro
Bancogiro wins for "best view" located adjacent to the famous market and steps from the Rialto Bridge. Its outdoor tables are right on the Grand Canal. My suggestion is to get there early for some "breakfast" chichetti. At lunch the outdoor tables are reserved for osteria patrons eating a meal.
This is what you can expect on the plate (or napkin in some cases).
Cicchetti are often served on a piece of bread to make them easier to eat, because they are often eaten standing up, especially during the pre-dinner rush. Most all bacari serve bread toped with baccalà mantecato (creamed re-hydrated salt cod, a Venetian specialty), sarde in sour (sweet and sour sardines- yet another mainstay), mortadella, lardo and often meatballs of various kinds. More and more bacari are becoming more creative in their combinations, showcasing finds from the fish market.
Wines offered across the board are typically creative and delicious. Since the pours are small, it makes sense to experiment and try new regions and grape varietals.
Let me know how your cicchetti crawl goes!
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